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OutBack CNC V1

OutBack CNC

Version 1.0

Mechanical Assembly Instructions

Safety Statement

The author of this document is not liable or responsible for any accidents, injuries, equipment damage, property damage, loss of money or loss of time resulting from improper use of electrical or mechanical or software products. Assembling electrical and mechanical CNC machine components like power supplies, motors, drivers or other electrical and mechanical components involves dealing with high voltage AC (alternating current) or DC (direct current) and other hazardous items which can be extremely dangerous and needs high attention to detail, experience, knowledge of software, electricity, electro-mechanics and mechanics.

BEFORE MAKING ANY CONNECTIONS OR DISCONNECTIONS POWER MUST BE REMOVED FROM THE DEVICE AND THE CONTROLLER. FAILURE TO DO SO WILL VOID ANY AND ALL WARRANTIES.

Before starting please read though all the instructions.

About the WorkBee CNC Kit

The OutBack CNC Machine is our strongest, most rigid CNC Router model. It has an upgraded motion system on all Axis to heavy-duty HGR and MGN linear rails with recirculating ball bearing sliders. The HGH15CA Bearing is commonly seen on larger automation systems and CNC Machines with heavy duty linear actuators. By securing steel linear rails to the aluminum extrusion, as well as using recirculating captive bearings, the rigidity and overall dynamic strength of the OutBack CNC immensely increased.

The OutBack CNC also has an upgrade to the X-Axis and Y-Axis C-Beam Extrusions to our famous C-Beam HEAVY which has a 72% improvement when compared to a standard C-Beam under the same conditions.

Please note that while we have spent a considerable amount of time and effort putting these instructions together, any errors and omissions excepted (E&OE). If you find an error, please let us know so we can continually improve this resource for the community.

Tools Required

You will need the following tools:

  • 3mm Allen Key
  • 2.5mm Allen Key
  • 2mm Allen Key
  • 8mm Spanner
  • Screw Drivers
  • Builder’s Square
  • Various other common tools

Pre-Assembly Notes

We recommend that you read through the whole assembly guide before beginning the build, as this enables you to get a rough idea of how it all goes together. Before starting each step make sure you have studied the drawings and fully understand the instructions.

When attaching parts, if a part is requiring significant force to attach, stop, take it off, re-read the instructions and try again. Do not over tighten screws as you may strip the thread or head.
If you have any questions regarding the build please contact us at sales@makerstore.com.au, we are happy to help!

1.0 Y-Axis Assembly

1.0 Y-Axis Assembly

1.1 Y Extrusion and HGR Rails

Please note: The number of holes per rail may vary slightly. This means the number of Screws and T-Nuts will also vary. To allow for this we provided 10% extra Screws and T-Nuts for all Linear Rail.

ItemDescriptionQuantity
1C-Beam (1000 or 1500mm)1
2HGR Linear Rail1
3M4 Sliding T-Nut17 or 25
4M4 x 14mm Socket Head17 or 25

Insert the M4x 14mm Socket Head through the HGR Rail and thread on the M4 Sliding T-Nut 1/2 a turn. These will be tighten when aligning the Rails.

Repeat this for all  Y-Axis HGR Rails.

Slide the HGR Rail Assembly into the top channels of the C-Beam as per the images. 

Repeat for both lengths of the Y-Axis.

Pro Tip: Sliding the HGR Rails and Sliding T-Nuts can be difficult, get another person to help you hold the rail straight while sliding the T-Nuts into the C-Beam.

 

1.1.1 HGR Rail and alignment tool

Using the Linear Rail Alignment Tool (Provided with all Outback Kits), align the HRG Linear Rail as shown.

Start at one end, press the tool so it is flush (as in the image) and move down to every second (odd number) screw aligning and tightening as you go. When you reach the end, return to the start tightening the even number screws.

When done, double check your alignment and repeat if necessary. The tool is a guide and aids in alignment and works well if used carefully and checked as you go. For more exact alignment a dial gauge and a datum edge can be used (this process is not covered here).

Pro Tip: Align the hole in the tool above the screw and place your Allen Key through to tighten the screw.

1.1.2 HGR Bearing Blocks

Slide the two HGR Bearings on to the HGR Rails.

Pro Tip: To avoid loosing any ball bearings keep the support that comes with the packaging on the bearing block. When installing the bearing block onto the rail, use the rail to push the plastic support rail out of the block, this ensures the steel balls are under tension and have contact with a rail at all times.

 

 

Note: Although the drawing does not depict this, it is best practice to have the grease nipple facing outwards to allow easier access during maintenance.

1.2 Gantry Plates

1.2.1 Nut Blocks

ItemDescriptionQuantity
1Y Plate1
2M5 x 20mm Socket Head4
3Nut Block TR8x8(P2)2
4M5 Nylon Lock Nut4

Attach 2 x Nut Blocks to the inner face of the Y Plate using 4 x M5 20mm Socket Head Screws and 4 x M5 Nylon Nuts. Only loosely tighten these screws so the Nut Blocks can still move slightly. These will be tightened later.

Repeat for both Y Plates.

1.2.2 Screwing Y Plates To The HGR Bearings

ItemDescriptionQuantity
1M4 x 12mm Socket Head8

Attach the Y Plate to the HGR Bearings using 8 x M4 12mm Socket Head Screws.

Pro Tip: Positioning the HGR Bearings can be tricky, loosely attach one screw to each bearing before doing the remaining screws. When tightening the screws, tighten all screws completely and then loosen them 1/8th of a turn. 1

This image shows a view looking up from under the plate, bearings and extrusion. Note how the Nut Blocks a inside the two bearings.

Pro Tip: When you tighten the screws, make sure to do in the order indicated:

  1. top left
  2. bottom right
  3. top right
  4. bottom left

This is a good practice to follow and should be used for most pattern fastenings.

1.3 Spoiler Board T-Nuts and Brackets

ItemDescriptionQuantity
1M5 x 8mm Button Head24 or 40
2M5 T-Nut24 or 40
3Double L Bracket6 or 10

Attach the Double L Brackets to the under side of the C-Beam Y Axis.

Leave all the bracket loose, as we will tighten after the base 2040 V-Slot is connected.

Do this for both Y Axis.

Pro Tip: Make sure to slide all the T-Nuts into the C-Beam Slot before attaching the brackets. It is best to do the middle brackets first and work outwards.

Note: The drawings shown are for a 1000mm Y Axis with 3 sets (6 Brackets) of Brackets, screws and T-Nuts. The 1500mm version will require 2 more sets - 5 bracket and screw sets in total (i.e., 10 Double L Brackets).

1.4 Spoiler Board Extrusion

Attach the 2040 Extrusion for the Spoiler Board Base by sliding into the T-Nuts for the Double L Bracket from the previous step.

This is can be difficult and so take your time. It may help to remove the screws from the Double L Brackets and then re-inset them (make sure to do the inner ones first, other wise you may have to undo to add extra T-Nuts into the slots).

Do this for both Y Axis, making sure to orientate everything correctly.

Pro Tip: This step is a good time to check everything is correct, facing the right way and generally looks alright without mistakes.

Note: This is not the final position of the 2040 Spoiler Board extrusion, so tighten so everything is loose but firm (i.e., not wobbling around but also not super tight).

1.5 End Plates

ItemDescriptionQuantity
1M5 x 16mm Socket Head4
2M5 x 20mm Socket Head8
3M5 Sliding T-Nut4
4Y Axis End Plate1
52040 Extrusion1

Attach the Y Axis End Plates (#4) to the Y-Axis Assembly.

Use 4 x M5 x 16mm Socket Head Screws (#1) and 4 x M5 Sliding T-Nuts (#3) to attach the Y End Plate (#4) to the front/back 2040 Base extrusion (#5). Don't tighten as this will be adjusted in later steps.

Attach the Y Assembly to the Y Axis End Plate by resting the Assembly onto the 2040 Base Extrusion and fix using the 8 x M5 x 20mm Socket Head Screws (#2) - these can be tightened. 

Repeat for front and back, and again for the other Y Axis.

Once all 4 Y Axis End Plates are attached the build should look similar to the image.

Note: This are still going to be moved around, squared and aligned. So there is no need to tighten everything yet.

1.6 Lead Screws

1.6.1 Inserting the Lead Screw

ItemDescriptionQuantity
1TR8x8(P2) x 1060mm1
28mm Lock Collar2
3688Z Bearing1
4F8-16M Thrust Bearing1

Push the Y Gantry Assembly to one the back. Insert the TR8x8(P2) Lead Screw (#1) making sure the bearings and collars are in the correct order.

 

Continue sliding the Lead Screw in. When it connects with the Nut Blocks, rotate the Lead Screw so it 'screws' into and through the two Nut Blocks. You may need to slide the Nut Blocks and screws along the Y Plate screw slots until the Lead Screw and two Nut Bocks find their correct spacing.

Continue until the Lead Screw extends around 100mm out the other side of the Y Plate.

1.6.2 Lead Screw Nut End

ItemDescriptionQuantity
1TR8x8(P2) x 1060mm1
28mm Lock Collar1
3688Z Bearing1
4F8-16M Thrust Bearing1
5Lead Screw Tensioning Nut1

Push the Y Gantry and Lead Screw to the front and guide the Lead Screw through the front Y End Plate. Make sure to thread the Lead Screw with the 8mm Lock Collar (#2) and 688Z Bearing (#3). 

Then thread the F8-16M bearing (#4) and screw the Lead Screw Tensioning Nut (#5) onto the end. Just screw it on enough so the Lead Screw is just flush with the face. It will be tightened later.  

1.6.3 Lead Screw and Attaching the Motor

ItemDescriptionQuantity
1M5 x 65mm Socket Head4
2Stepper Motor1
3Motor Spacer2
4Coupler 6.35 - 8mm1

Making sure the 688z and F8-16M Bearings and 8mm Lock Collars are correctly positioned, attach the 6.35-8mm Jaw Coupler (#4) to the Lead Screw.

Thread the 4 x M5 x 65mm Socket Head (#1) screws through the Stepper Motor (#2) and  two Motor Spacers (#3). Align the Motor shaft with the Coupler (#4) and tighten the 4  M5 x 65mm Socket Head (#1) screws.

Note: It is recommend that the Motor Spacers (#3) are mounted horizontally (as in the image) to make cabling and connecting easier at a later stage.

2 X-Axis Assembly

2.1 X Axis Extrusion and HGR Rails

2.1.1 4040 Support

ItemDescriptionQuantity
1C-Beam1
24040 V-Slot1
3M5 x 8mm Button Head12 or 20
490 degree Angle Corner Connector6 or 10
5T-Nut12 or 20

Using the 90 Degree Corner Brackets(#4), M5 x 8mm Button Head (#3) screws and M5 T-Nuts (#5) attach the 4040 V-Slot (#2) to the X Axis C-Beam (#1).

For 1000mm X Axis Use:

  • 3 x 90 Degree Corner Brackets on top
  • 3 x 90 Degree Corner Brackets on bottom

For 1500mm X Axis Use:

  • 5 x 90 Degree Corner Brackets on top
  • 5 x 90 Degree Corner Brackets on bottom

Pro-Tip: Use a straight edge to align the ends of the C-Beam and 4040. It is important that they are flush at both ends. If not then sand or file gently the piece that is longer. 

X Axis 1000mm with 6 Brackets

2.1.2 HGR Rail and alignment tool

Please note: The number of holes per rail may vary slightly. This means the number of Screws and T-Nuts will also vary. To allow for this we provided 10% extra Screws and T-Nuts for all Linear Rail.

 

ItemDescriptionQuantity
1M4 x 14mm Socket Head34 or 50
2HGR Linear Rail2
3M4 Sliding T-Nut34 or 50

Insert the M4x 14mm Socket Head through the HGR Rail and thread on the M4 Sliding T-Nut 1/2 a turn. These will be tighten when aligning the Rails.

Repeat this for the other X Axis HGR Rails.

Slide the HGR Rail Assemblies into the channels of the C-Beam as per the images. 

Pro Tip: Sliding the HGR Rails and Sliding T-Nuts can be difficult, get another person to help you hold the rail straight while sliding the T-Nuts into the C-Beam.

 

2.1.2 HGR Rail and alignment tool

Using the Linear Rail Alignment Tool (Provided with all Outback Kits), align the HRG Linear Rail as shown.

Start at one end, press the tool so it is flush (as in the image) and move down to every second (odd number) screw aligning and tightening as you go. When you reach the end, return to the start tightening the even number screws.

When done, double check your alignment and repeat if necessary. The tool is a guide and aids in alignment and works well if used carefully and checked as you go. For more exact alignment a dial gauge and a datum edge can be used (this process is not covered here).

Pro Tip: Align the hole in the tool above the screw and place your Allen Key through to tighten the screw.

2.1.3 HGR Bearing Blocks

Slide the four HGR Bearings on to the HGR Rails.

Pro Tip: To avoid loosing any ball bearings keep the support that comes with the packaging on the bearing block. When installing the bearing block onto the rail, use the rail to push the plastic support rail out of the block, this ensures the steel balls are under tension and have contact with a rail at all times.

Note: Although the drawing does not depict this, it is best practice to have the grease nipple facing outwards to allow easier access during maintenance.

Click image to zoom

2.2 Gantry Plate

2.2.1 Nut Blocks

ItemDescriptionQuantity
1M5 x 45 Button Head4
2X Axis Plate1
3Drive Nut Spacer2
4Nut Block TR8x8(P2)2
5M5 Nylon Lock Nut4

Attach the Nut Spacer (#3) and Nut Block (#4) to the X Axis Plate (#2) using the 4 x M5 x 45 Button Head (#1) screws and the M5 Nylon Lock Nuts (#5).

Tighten so that they are firm but still loose and can be adjusted.

2.3 Screwing the X Gantry Plate To The HGR Bearings

ItemDescriptionQuantity
1M5 Nylon Lock Nut4
2Nut Block TR8x8(P2)2
3Drive Nut Spacer2
4X Axis Plate1
5M5 x 45 Button Head4
6M4 x 12mm Button Head8

Using the M4 x 12 Button Head (#6) screws attach the X Axis Plate to the four HGR15 Bearings.

Pro Tip: Positioning the HGR Bearings can be tricky, loosely attach one screw to each bearing before doing the remaining screws. When tightening the screws, tighten all screws completely and then loosen them 1/8th of a turn. 

Pro Tip: When you tighten the screws, make sure to do in the order indicated:

  1. top left
  2. bottom right
  3. top right
  4. bottom left

This is a good practice to follow and should be used for most pattern fastenings.

Slide the gantry to one end and tighten all four HGR bearing screws. Slide the gantry to the other end and make sure there is smooth motion along the entire length. If it gets stiffer or jammed while moving to along the rails, check the spacing of the HGR Rails and try again.

If it is still stiff or jams, us the Alignment Tool on the bottom rail and leave the top rail loose. Move the gantry to one end, making sure the bearings are screwed to the X Axis Plate firmly, then tighten the end most screw on the rail. Slide the gantry to the other end and tighten the other end most screw. Move to the middle and tighten the screw closest to the gantry. Now test again. The gantry should slide smoothly along the entire length. 

If the gantry still jams, repeat the above until it runs smooth. The vast majority of problems of stiff gantries is because of incorrect alignment. Be patient, it can take some time to get the alignment correct. 

Pro-Tip: The best way to get smooth gantries is to use a datum. Spend time, and use the Alignment Tool, to make sure the bottom HRG rail is correctly aligned on the C-Beam, and use that as the datum for the top HGR Rail and gantry/bearings.

2.4 Attaching The X-Axis To The Y-Axis

ItemDescriptionQuantity
1M5 x 8 Button Head6
2M5 x 12mm Button Head6
390 degree Angle Corner Connector6
4M5 T-Nut6

Using the M5 x 8mm Screws, attach the 90 degree Angle Corner Connectors to the C-Beam and the 4040 Support. Leave them all loose but firm and not sliding around.

Align the X Axis up to the Y Plate and using the M5 x 12mm screws attach the X Axis to the Y Plate.

Do this for both sides.

Pro-Tip: Get something or someone to support the other end of the X Axis while positioning the X Axis and the Y Plate.

Note the location of the 6 x 90 degree Angle Corner Connectors.

ItemDescriptionQuantity
1M5 x 20mm Socket Head8

Use the eight M5 x 20mm (#1) screws to secure the X Axis to the Y Plate.

Repeat on both sides.

Tighten all the screws for the XY Assembly (plate screws and brackets).

2.5 Lead Screw

2.5.1 Inserting the Lead Screw

ItemDescriptionQuantity
1Lead Screw Tensioning Nut1
2F8-16M Thrust Bearing2
3688Z Bearing2
48mm Lock Collar3
5Coupler 6.35 - 8mm1
6Motor Spacer2
7Stepper Motor1
8M5 x 65mm Socket Head4

Using the same process as for the Y Axis, insert the Lead Screw through the Y Plates.

Continue sliding the Lead Screw in. When it connects with the Nut Blocks, rotate the Lead Screw so it 'screws' into and through the two Nut Blocks. You may need to slide the Nut Blocks and screws along the Y Plate screw slots until the Lead Screw and two Nut Bocks find their correct spacing.

Continue until the Lead Screw extends around 100mm out the other side of the Y Plate.

Finish by attaching the Stepper Motor (#7) as in the same way as the Y Axis above.

 

3 Z-Axis

3.1 Z Extrusion and MGN Rails

3.1.1 MGN Rails

ItemDescriptionQuantity
12080 V-Slot 250mm1
2MGN15 Rail2
3M3 Sliding T-Nut2
4M3 x 10mm Cap Head3

Following the same process as for the X Axis, attach and align the MGN12 Rail (#2) onto the 2080 V-Slot (#1).

Use the Alignment Tool when aligning the MGN onto the 2080.

3.1.2 MGN Bearing Blocks

Slide the four MGN Bearings on to the MGN Rails.

Pro Tip: To avoid loosing any ball bearings keep the support that comes with the packaging on the bearing block. When installing the bearing block onto the rail, use the rail to push the plastic support rail out of the block, this ensures the steel balls are under tension and have contact with a rail at all times.

Note: As in the drawing have the grease nipple facing upwards to allow for greater Z Axis travel.

3.2 Z Gantry Plate

ItemDescriptionQuantity
1M3 x 10mm Button Head16
2M5 x 16mm Socket Head2
3Nut Block TR8x8(P2)1
4M5 Nylon Lock Nut2

Attach the Nut Block TR8x8(P2) (#3) to the Z Plate using the M5 x 16mm (#2) screws and the My Nuts (#4).

Secure the Z Plate to the MGN Bearings following the same process as for the X Plate to HGR Bearings above.

Note: Make sure the Z Plate is correctly orientated on teh MGN Bearings as per drawings.

3.3 End Plates

ItemDescriptionQuantity
1M5 x 15mm Low Profile4
2Z End Plate1

Attach the Z End Plate (#2) to the 2080 V-Slot using the 4 x M5 x 15mm Low Profile (#1) screws.

 

Repeat for the other end.

3.4 Z Axis Lead Screw and Stepper Motor

ItemDescriptionQuantity
1688Z Bearing2
28mm Lock Collar2
3Coupler 6.35 - 8mm1
4Motor Spacer2
5Coupler 6.35 - 8mm1
6Stepper Motor1
7M5 x 65mm Socket Head4

Using the same process as for the X and Y Axis, insert the Lead Screw through the Z End Plates.

 

Continue sliding the Lead Screw in. When it connects with the Nut Block, rotate the Lead Screw so it 'screws' into and through the two Nut Block. 

Continue until the Lead Screw extends around 100mm out the other side of the Z End Plate.

Finish by attaching the Stepper Motor (#5) as in the same way as the X Y Axis above.

3.5 X-Z Mating

ItemDescriptionQuantity
1Shim 10x5x14
2M5 x 20mm Socket Head4

Using the four Shims (#1) and four M5 x 20mm Socket Head (#2) screws attach the Z Assembly to the X Plate.

 

4 Squaring and Commissioning

For how to square and commission the OutBack CNC Machine follow the same processes as:

WorkBee Square and Commissioning Process.

Please Click HERE to go to the Commissioning Guide. 

Once everything is Square, remember to go back over check and tighten all the screws.

Credits

We will work out all those involved and have the info here soon.

Previous CNC Commissioning Guide
Next WorkBee CNC V3 Assembly
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