Maker Store Work-B CNC

Version 3

Mechanical Assembly Instructions

About the Maker Store Work-B CNC V3

The first WorkBee CNC model was originally designed by Ryan Lock of Ooznest UK. It was a strong, accurate and easy to assemble CNC machine. This new Maker Store Work-B CNC Version 3 is the Maker Hardware kit based on the popular WorkBee CNC Machine design. This new Version 3 model is heavily modified to achieve better results. It is important to note that the new upgrade is VERY different to other manufacturer’s models. The Maker Store Work-B has two interchangeable transmission systems allowing for a high level of customisation as well as axis compatible with up to 3m in length, allowing for full timber sheets to be worked on!

Pre-Assembly Notes

We recommend that you read through the whole assembly guide before beginning the build, as this enables you to get a rough idea of how it all goes together. Before starting each step make sure you have studied the drawings and fully understand the instructions.

When attaching parts, if a part is requiring significant force to attach, stop, take it off, re-read the instructions and try again. Do not over tighten screws as you may strip the thread or head.

How to use this manual

Follow the Chapter Index below to go directly to the chapter you require. Start by assembling your Y-Axis. After the Y-Axis is assembled you can assemble your X-Axis. When both the Y-Axis and X-Axis are assembled you can assemble your Z-Axis and the finally your Spoiler Board.

Make sure you are referring to the chapter that fits your build. If you have any questions regarding the build please contact us at [email protected]

Chapter Index

	Y-Axis: Lead Screw Transmission Y-Axis: Gear Rack Transmission: 1000mm and 1500mm Models Y-Axis: Gear Rack Transmission: 3000mm Model
	X-Axis: Lead Screw Transmission X-Axis: Gear Rack Transmission
	Z-Axis
	Spoiler Board: 1000mm and 1500mm Models Spoiler Board: 3000mm Model
	Mounting Cable Drag Chain (CDC) and Bracket

1.1 Y-Axis Lead Screw

1.1.1 Wheel Assembly

Step 1: Assemble the Solid V Wheel as per the drawing. Ensure you only use 1 Precision Shim between the two Bearings.

Step 2: Repeat this for all the remaining Solid V Wheels

Tip: Seperate the 8mm bore and the 5mm bore bearings so to not incorrectly assemble a wheel with 2 different types of bearings.

1.1.2 ACME Nut Blocks

Step 1: Attach 2x ACME-Nut-Block to the Y-Plate using 4x M5-Cap-Head-Screws-25mm & 4x M5-Nylon-Nuts. On each screw, in-between the head of the screw and the Y-Plate, there should be a Precision-Shim. In between the Y-Plate and the ACME-Nut-Block there should be a 3mm Spacer. Only loosely tighten these screws so the ACME-Nut-Blocks can still move side to side.

Step 2: Ensure the recess on the Y-Plate for the 688ZZ Bearing to seat in is on the same side as ACME-Nut-Blocks. The recess is labelled as “A” on the drawing.

Tip: The Maker Hardware Logo is the outer face of the place.

1.1.3 Y Wheels & Y-Plate-Inner

Step 1: First attach the bottom right wheel set – insert a M5 Cap Screws – 60mm screw through the Y-Plate-Assembly from the back. On to this screw, add an Eccentric-Spacer-6mm, Solid-V-Wheel-M5-Assembly, Metric Aluminium Spacers – 9mm, Solid-V-Wheel-M5-Assembly, and a Eccentric-Spacer-6mm in this order. Next, add a Y-Plate-Inner onto the top of this assemblage, add a Precision Shim – 10x5x1mm onto the screw and then slightly thread on a M5-Nylon-Nut. The rounded portion of the Eccentric-Spacer-6mm should be inserted into the hole on both the Y-Plate-Assembly or Y-Plate-Inner (depending on which side it is on).

Step 2: Attach the top right wheel set – insert a M8 Cap Screws – 60mm screw through the Y-Plate-Assembly from the back. On to this screw, add a M8 Round Spacers – 6mm, Solid-V-Wheel-M8-Assembly, M8 Round Spacers – 9mm, Solid-V-Wheel-M8-Assembly, and a M8 Round Spacers – 6mm in this order. Next, add a Y-Plate-Inner onto the top of this assemblage and then slightly thread on a M8-Nylon-Nut.

Step 3: Once all the wheels are attached the Nylon-Nuts can be tightened down. Ensure that the Solid-V-Wheels can still rotate freely. On the hexagonal portion of the Eccentric-Spacer-6mm, there will be one face that is marked with ‘6mm’. Using a spanner, adjust each Eccentric-Spacer-6mm so that this face is facing downwards. Doing this maximises the gap between the top and bottom row of wheels.

Step 4: Run any piece of C-Beam extrusion in between the two rows of wheels. Initially, the C-Beam will wobble between the wheels. Turn the assembly upside down so the C-Beam is sitting on the top row of wheels (with M8 Aluminium Spacers). Starting with an outside pair of wheels, adjust both Eccentric-Spacer-6mms down onto the C-Beam Extrusion until there is a small amount of friction between both wheels and the C-Beam Extrusion. When adjusting the pair of Eccentric-Spacer-6mms ideally they should be adjusted identically. However, sometimes one will need to be adjusted slightly more than the other to get both wheels engaged with the C-Beam extrusion. Repeat this for the other outside pair of wheels, and then again for the middle pair.

Step 5: Slide the C-Beam extrusion back and forth through the wheels. This should require a small amount of force, and all wheels should spin as it rolls. Also check there is no wobbling of the extrusion. Once happy, double check the tightness of the Nylon-Nuts.

Tip: The Maker Hardware Logo on the Y-Axis-Inner-Plate should be facing outwards. It can be easier to lay the Y-Axis-Plate down and insert all the screws through the holes, then you can add all the other components onto the screws.

Note: Not all wheels may rotate, and some may rotate freely and seem loose, this is okay. Generally it takes a few weeks for the wheels to ‘settle in’.

1.1.4 Y-Axis Extrusions

Step 1: Slide the Y-Axis Assembly onto the C-Beam. This should slide on easily with little resistance or force required.

If there is resistance stop, do not force it or you risk chipping or cracking a wheel on the edge of the extrusion. Make sure all of the eccentric spacer markings are facing downwards so that the top and bottom rows of wheels are spaced the furthest from each other as possible. You can also loosen all the Nylon Lock Nuts on the wheels by 1 turn to help ‘free up’ the rows of wheels.

Step 2: Once the assembly is on the C-Beam extrusion tighten all of the Nylon Lock Nuts.

Step 3: Recheck the bottom Eccentric-Spacer-6mms on the Y-Gantry-Assembly to make sure they are touching the rail and that there is no wobble.

Note: Not all wheels may rotate, and some may rotate freely and seem loose, this is okay. Generally it takes a few weeks for the wheels to ‘settle in’.

1.1.5 Preparing T-Nuts

Step 1: Insert 2 T-Nuts into both of the bottom channels of the Y-Axis C-Beam. We will use these later in this chapter.

Important: Ensure the flat side of the T-Nut is facing outwards.

1.1.6 End Plates

Choose which end of your machine you want your motors to be mounted to. We recommend the back of the machine.

Step 1: Using 4x M5 Cap Screws – 20mm Screws secure the C-Beam End Mount to the C-Beam.

Note: The Recess for the bearing to seat into should be facing inwards.

Leave the other end of the C-Beam off for now, we will attach this later in this chapter.

1.1.7 ACME Screws and Bearings

Step 1: Thread the ACME-Lead-Screw through the both of the Nut Blocks.

Step 2: With the ACME-Lead-Screws now in position, tighten the screws on the nut blocks that were left loose in step 1.1.2 so they have a firm fixing. This will ensure the nut blocks are aligned.

Note: Be careful when tightening the nut block screws that the nut block does not slightly rotate when being tightened. This will cause the lead screw to be slightly out of alignment which may cause motor stalling problems later.

1.1.8 Bearings and Jaw Coupler

Step 1: Slide an 8mm Lock Collar onto the Lead Screw, then slide a 688Z Bearing onto the Lead Screw.

Step 2: Once the inner bearing and lock collar are on the Lead Screw, insert the Lead Screw through the End Plate so it is protruding out the plate.

Step 3: Insert the Thrust Bearing onto the Lead Screw. Next thread the Tensioning Nut onto the Lead Screw. If you have not already inserted the set screw into the Tensioning Nut do so, but do not tighten the set screw so that it makes contact with the Lead Screw, we will do this later.

Step 4: Place the Jaw Coupler over the Lead Screw, make sure the coupler is pushed as far onto the Lead Screw as it can be. Tighten the Coupler set screws so that it is secured to the Lead Screw.

Tip: You can easily move the Y-Axis Gantry from side to side, this will in turn move the Lead Screw which will allow you to position the Lead Screw so that you can easily insert the inner bearings and outer bearings.

1.1.9 Stepper Motors

Step 1: Attach the Nema23 Stepper Motor to the C-Beam End Mount using the 4x M5 Cap Screws – 65mm with 1x M5 Round Spacers – 50mm per screw in place to space the Nema23 Stepper Motor off the C-Beam End Mount.

Step 2: Once the motor is mounted move the ACME-Lead-Screw so it is touching the shaft of the motor. Tighten the Jaw Coupler onto the motor shaft. It is best to have the set screw tightened on the flat section of the Nema23 shaft.

Step 3: Push the Lead Screw Tensioning Nut against the thrust bearing and tighten the grub screw on the lock collar.

1.1.10 Thrust Bearings and Tensioning Nut

Step 1: Slide an 8mm Lock Collar onto the Lead Screw, then slide a 688Z Bearing onto the Lead Screw. 

Step 2: Once the inner bearing and lock collar are on the Lead Screw, Secure the Motor Mount Plate to the C-Beam using 4x M5 Cap Screws – 20mm and insert the Lead Screw through the End Plate so it is protruding out the plate.

Step 3: Insert the Thrust Bearing onto the Lead Screw. Next thread the Tensioning Nut onto the Lead Screw. If you have not already inserted the set screw into the Tensioning Nut do so.

Step 4: At this point make sure the Tensioning Nut on both ends of the axis are against the Thrust Bearings, then tighten the set screw to position them onto the Lead Screw.

1.1.11 Completed Axis

Repeat this chapter to assemble the other Y-Axis actuator. You should have two actuators that are a ‘mirror’ of each other.

To proceed to the next chapter:

If you have a Lead Screw X-Axis click HERE

If you have a Gear Rack X-Axis click HERE

To return to the Chapter Index click HERE

1.2 Y-Axis Rack and Pinion up to 1500mm

1.2.1 Wheel Assembly

Step 1: Assemble the Solid V Wheel as per the drawing. Ensure you only use 1 Precision Shim between the two Bearings.

Step 2: Repeat this for all the remaining Solid V Wheels

Tip: Separate the 8mm bore and the 5mm bore bearings so to not incorrectly assemble a wheel with 2 different types of bearings.

1.2.2 Motor Plate

The Outside of the plate has the Maker Hardware Logo on it. The Inside of the plate does not have the Logo on it, and also has the recess for the 688Z Bearing.

Step 1: Insert M5 Low Profile Screws – 30mm though the hole indicated in the image. Make sure the head of the screw is on the inside of the plate. Then place a M5 Round Spacers – 5mm and M5 Round Spacers – 10mm over the screw. Then place the L bracket over the screw; note that the holes on the L bracket are in different positions, one is closer to the bend and one is further. The hole that is closer to the bend of the bracket is the hole that you will place over the screw. Then thread the Nylon Lock Nut over the screw so that it is finger tight, we will tighten more this shortly.

Step 2: Insert the M5 Low Profile Screw – 20mm through the end hole of the Gear Rack Motor Mount Plate. Then insert Precision Shim – 10x5x1mm over the screw. Then place the L bracket over the screw; note that the holes on the L bracket are in different positions, one is closer to the bend and one is further. The hole that is closer to the bend of the bracket is the hole that you will place over the screw. Then thread the Nylon Lock Nut over the screw so that it is finger tight, we will tighten more this shortly.

Step 3: Insert the M5 Cap Screws – 30mm Cap Head Screw through the middle hole next to the cut out of the Y-Axis Plate. Place the Thrust Bearing – F5-12M over the screw, then place the opposite-most hole of the Gear Rack Motor Mount Plate over the screw. Place the Precision Shim – 10x5x1mm over the screw then thread the Nylon Lock Nut over the screw so that it is finger tight, we will tighten more this shortly.

1.2.3 Spring System

Step 1: Place Precision Shim – 10x5x1mm, then Spring – 1.2 x 7.5 x 20mm, then Precision Shim – 10x5x1mm over M5 Cap Screw – 60mm .

Step 2: Then insert M5 Cap Screw – 60mm through the holes of both the Universal L Brackets so that it aligns the two holes.

Step 3: Then place Precision Shim – 10x5x1mm over the screw and then thread the Nylon Lock Nut over the screw so that it is finger tight, we will tighten this more later in this chapter.

1.2.4 Stepper Motor Pinion

Step 1: Slide the Pinion Gear so that it is over the shaft of the Nema23 Stepper Motor. Secure it in place using the set screw in the Pinion Gear. Ensure the set screw is secured to the flat section of the motor shaft.

Tip: You may need to reposition the Pinion Gear onto the shaft so it sits centre of the Gear Rack later in this chapter. You may like to secure it ‘loosely’ until then.

1.2.5 Stepper Motor

Step 1:  Secure the Nema23 Stepper Motor to the 4 threaded holes of the Gear Rack Motor Mount Plate.

1.2.6 Y Wheels & Y-Plate-Inner

Step 1: First attach the bottom right wheel set – place a Precision Shim – 10x5x1mm over the M5 Cap Screw – 60mm then insert the M5 Cap Screws – 60mm screw through the Y-Plate-Assembly from the back. On to this screw, add an Eccentric-Spacer-6mm, Solid-V-Wheel-M5-Assembly, Metric Aluminium Spacers – 9mm, Solid-V-Wheel-M5-Assembly, and a Eccentric-Spacer-6mm in this order. Next, add a Y-Plate-Inner onto the top of this assemblage, add a Precision Shim – 10x5x1mm onto the screw and then slightly thread on a M5-Nylon-Nut. The rounded portion of the Eccentric-Spacer-6mm should be inserted into the hole on both the Y-Plate-Assembly or Y-Plate-Inner (depending on which side it is on).

Step 2: First attach the top right wheel set – insert a M8 Cap Screws – 60mm screw through the Y-Plate-Assembly from the back. On to this screw, add a M8 Round Spacers – 6mm, Solid-V-Wheel-M8-Assembly, M8 Round Spacers – 9mm, Solid-V-Wheel-M8-Assembly, and a M8 Round Spacers – 6mm in this order. Next, add a Y-Plate-Inner onto the top of this assemblage and then slightly thread on a M8-Nylon-Nut.

Step 3: Once all the wheels are attached the Nylon-Nuts can be tightened down. Ensure that the Solid-V-Wheels can still rotate freely. On the hexagonal portion of the Eccentric-Spacer-6mm, there will be one face that is marked with ‘6mm’. Using a spanner, adjust each Eccentric-Spacer-6mm so that this face is facing downwards. Doing this maximises the gap between the top and bottom row of wheels.

Step 4: Run any piece of C-Beam extrusion in between the two rows of wheels. Initially, the C-Beam will wobble between the wheels. Turn the assembly upside down so the C-Beam is sitting on the top row of wheels (with M8 Aluminium Spacers). Starting with an outside pair of wheels, adjust both Eccentric-Spacer-6mms down onto the C-Beam Extrusion until there is a small amount of friction between both wheels and the C-Beam Extrusion. When adjusting the pair of Eccentric-Spacer-6mms ideally they should be adjusted identically. However, sometimes one will need to be adjusted slightly more than the other to get both wheels engaged with the C-Beam extrusion. Repeat this for the other outside pair of wheels, and then again for the middle pair.

Step 5: Slide the C-Beam extrusion back and forth through the wheels. This should require a small amount of force, and all wheels should spin as it rolls. Also check there is no wobbling of the extrusion. Once happy, double check the tightness of the Nylon-Nuts.

Tip: The Maker Hardware Logo on the Y-Axis-Inner-Plate should be facing outwards. It can be easier to lay the Y-Axis-Plate down and insert all the screws through the holes, then you can add all the other components onto the screws.

Note: Not all wheels may rotate, and some may rotate freely and seem loose, this is okay. Generally it takes a few weeks for the wheels to ‘settle in’.

1.2.7 Gear Racks

Insert the Internal Gear Racks into the C-Beam. You may need to cut the last Gear Rack so it does not protrude out of the C-Beam too far. The ideal length of the Gear Rack is approximately 2mm protruding out of each end of the C-Beam. For now do not cut the Gear Rack to size until later in this chapter.

1.2.8 Preparing T-Nuts

Step 1: Insert 2 T-Nuts into both of the bottom channels of the Y-Axis C-Beam. We will use these later in this chapter.

Important: Ensure the flat side of the T-Nut is facing outwards.

1.2.9 Loading Y-Carriage

Step 1: Slide the Y-Axis Assembly onto the C-Beam. This should slide on easily with little resistance or force required.

If there is resistance stop, do not force it or you risk chipping or cracking a wheel on the edge of the extrusion. Make sure all of the eccentric spacer markings are facing downwards so that the top and bottom rows of wheels are spaced the furthest from each other as possible. You can also loosen all the Nylon Lock Nuts on the wheels by 1 turn to help ‘free up’ the rows of wheels.

Step 2: Once the assembly is on the C-Beam make sure the Pinion Gear is centred over the Gear Rack, if it is not then loosen the Pinion Gear and reposition it on the motor shaft so that it will line up centre of the Gear Rack.

Step 3: Tighten the screw that has the spring installed until the Pinion Gear is sitting hard against the Gear Rack.

IMPORTANT: The right amount of tightening in the M5 Nylon Hex Locknut and spring loaded screw is when the motor plate becomes hard against the Gear Rack so that it is fully seated into the teeth of the Gear Rack. This means that this nut should not be over-tight or under tight. 

Step 4: At this point remove the Y-Axis assembly from the C-Beam and tighten the lock nuts that we left slightly loose in steps 1.2.2 (there are 3 to tighten). Once these are tightened you can slide the assembly back onto the C-Beam.

Step 5: Once the assembly is on the C-Beam extrusion recheck the bottom Eccentric-Spacer-6mms on the Y-Gantry-Assembly to make sure they are touching the rail and that there is no wobble.

Note: Not all wheels may rotate, and some may rotate freely and seem loose, this is okay. Generally it takes a few weeks for the wheels to ‘settle in’. If you have not tightened all Nylon-Nuts at this point then do so.

1.2.10 End Plates

Step 1: Using 4x M5 Cap Screws – 20mm secure the C-Beam End Mount to the C-Beam.

Note: The Recess for the bearing to seat into should be facing inwards.

Repeat for the other end of the C-Beam.

The Gear Racks will squeeze together. If the Gear Racks are protruding too much you may need to cut off a small amount. The important feature is the Gear Racks are slightly longer than the C-Beam, this way they will be placed under tension when the plates are secured to each end.

1.2.11 Completed Axis

Repeat this chapter to assemble the other Y-Axis actuator. You should have two actuators which are a ‘mirror’ of each other.

To proceed to the next chapter:

If you have a Lead Screw X-Axis click HERE

If you have a Gear Rack X-Axis click HERE

To return to the Chapter Index click HERE

1.3 Y-Axis Rack and Pinion Longer than 1500mm

1.3.1 Wheel Assembly

Step 1: Assemble the Solid V Wheel as per the drawing. Ensure you only use 1 Precision Shim between the two Bearings.

Step 2: Repeat this for all the remaining Solid V Wheels

Tip: Seperate the 8mm bore and the 5mm bore bearings so to not incorrectly assemble a wheel with 2 different types of bearings.

1.3.2 Motor plate

The Outside of the plate has the Maker Hardware Logo on it. The Inside of the plate does not have the Logo on it, and also has the recess for the 688Z Bearing.

Step 1: Insert a M5 Low Profile Screw – 30mm though the hole of the Y-Axis Plate indicated in the image. Make sure the head of the screw is on the inside of the plate. Then place a M5 Round Spacer – 5mm and a M5 Round Spacer – 10mm over the screw. Then place the L bracket over the screw; note that the holes on the L bracket are in different positions, one is closer to the bend and one is further. The hole that is closer to the bend of the bracket is the hole that you will place over the screw. Then thread the Nylon Lock Nut over the screw so that it is finger tight, we will tighten more this shortly.

Step 2: Insert the M5 Low Profile Screw – 20mm through the end hole of the Gear Rack Motor Mount Plate. Then slide a Precision Shim – 10x5x1mm over the screw. Then place the L bracket over the screw; note that the holes on the L bracket are in different positions, one is closer to the bend and one is further. The hole that is closer to the bend of the bracket is the hole that you will place over the screw. Then thread the Nylon Lock Nut over the screw so that it is finger tight, we will tighten more this shortly.

Step 3: Insert the M5 Cap Screw – 30mm through the middle hole next to the cut out of the Y-Axis Plate. Place the Thrust Bearings – F5-12M over the screw, then place the opposite-most hole of the Gear Rack Motor Mount Plate over the screw. Place the Precision Shim – 10x5x1mm over the screw then thread the Nylon Lock Nut over the screw so that it is finger tight, we will tighten more this shortly.

1.3.3 Spring System

Step 1: Place Precision Shim – 10x5x1mm, then Spring – 1.2 x 7.5 x 20mm, then Precision Shim – 10x5x1mm over M5 Cap Screw – 60mm .

Step 2: Then insert M5 Cap Screw – 60mm through the holes of both the Universal L Brackets so that it aligns the two holes.

Step 3: Then place Precision Shim – 10x5x1mm over the screw and then thread the Nylon Lock Nut over the screw so that it is finger tight, we will tighten this more later in this chapter.

1.3.4 Stepper Motor Pinion

Step 1: Slide the Pinion Gear so that it is over the shaft of the Nema23 Stepper Motor. Secure it in place using the set screw in the Pinion Gear. Ensure the set screw is secured to the flat section of the motor shaft.

Tip: You may need to reposition the Pinion Gear onto the shaft so it sits centre of the Gear Rack later in this chapter. You may like to secure it ‘loosely’ until then.

1.3.5 Stepper Motor

Step 1:  Secure the Nema23 Stepper Motor to the 4 threaded holes of the Gear Rack Motor Mount Plate.

1.3.6 Y Wheels

For the purpose of this step the Gear Rack Motor Mount Plate and Nema23 Stepper Motor are not visible.

Step 1: First attach the bottom right wheel set – place a Precision Shim – 10x5x1mm over the M5 Cap Screw – 30mm then insert the M5 Cap Screw – 30mm through the Y-Plate-Assembly from the back. On to this screw, add an Eccentric-Spacer-6mm, Solid-V-Wheel-M5-Assembly, then slightly thread on a M5-Nylon-Nut. The rounded portion of the Eccentric-Spacer-6mm should be inserted into the hole on both the Y-Plate-Assembly.

Step 2: Attach the top right wheel set – insert a M8 Cap Screw – 30mm through the Y-Plate-Assembly from the back. On to this screw, add a M8 Round Spacers – 6mm, Solid-V-Wheel-M8-Assembly, then slightly thread on a M8-Nylon-Nut.

Step 3: Once all the wheels are attached the Nylon-Nuts can be tightened down. Ensure that the Solid-V-Wheels can still rotate freely. On the hexagonal portion of the Eccentric-Spacer-6mm, there will be one face that is marked with ‘6mm’. Using a spanner, adjust each Eccentric-Spacer-6mm so that this face is facing downwards. Doing this maximises the gap between the top and bottom row of wheels.

Step 4: Run any piece of C-Beam extrusion in between the two rows of wheels. Initially, the C-Beam will wobble between the wheels. Turn the assembly upside down so the C-Beam is sitting on the top row of wheels (with M8 Aluminium Spacers). Starting with an outside wheel, adjust both Eccentric-Spacer-6mms down onto the C-Beam Extrusion until there is a small amount of friction between the wheels and the C-Beam Extrusion. Repeat this for the other outside wheel, and then again for the middle wheel.

Step 5: Slide the C-Beam extrusion back and forth through the wheels. This should require a small amount of force, and all wheels should spin as it rolls. Also check there is no wobbling of the extrusion. Once happy, double check the tightness of the Nylon-Nuts.

Tip: The Maker Hardware Logo on the Y-Axis-Inner-Plate should be facing outwards. It can be easier to lay the Y-Axis-Plate down and insert all the screws through the holes, then you can add all the other components onto the screws.

Note: Not all wheels may rotate, and some may rotate freely and seem loose, this is okay. Generally it takes a few weeks for the wheels to ‘settle in’.

1.3.7 Gear Racks

Insert the Internal Gear Racks into the C-Beam. You may need to cut the last Gear Rack so it does not protrude out of the C-Beam too far. The ideal length of the Gear Rack is approximately 2mm protruding out of each end of the C-Beam. For now do not cut the Gear Rack to size until later in this chapter.

1.3.8 Preparing T-Nuts

Step 1: Insert 2 T-Nuts into both of the bottom channels of the Y-Axis C-Beam and 3 T-Nuts into the bottom channel of the inwards facing side of the C-Beam (the 80mm face). We will use these later in this chapter.

Important: Ensure the flat side of the T-Nut is facing outwards.

1.3.9 Loading Y-Carriage

Step 1: Slide the Y-Axis Assembly onto the C-Beam. This should slide on easily with little resistance or force required.

If there is resistance stop, do not force it or you risk chipping or cracking a wheel on the edge of the extrusion. Make sure all of the eccentric spacer markings are facing downwards so that the top and bottom rows of wheels are spaced the furthest from each other as possible. You can also loosen all the Nylon Lock Nuts on the wheels by 1 turn to help ‘free up’ the wheels.

Step 2: Once the assembly is on the C-Beam make sure the Pinion Gear is centred over the Gear Rack, if it is not then loosen the Pinion Gear and reposition it on the motor shaft so that it will line up centre of the Gear Rack.

Step 3: Tighten the screw that has the spring installed until the Pinion Gear is sitting hard against the Gear Rack.

IMPORTANT: The right amount of tightening in the M5 Nylon Hex Locknut and spring loaded screw is when the motor plate becomes hard against the Gear Rack so that it is fully seated into the teeth of the Gear Rack. This means that this nut should not be over-tight or under-tight. 

Step 4: At this point remove the Y-Axis assembly from the C-Beam and tighten the lock nuts that we left slightly loose in steps 1.3.2 (there are 3 to tighten). Once these are tightened you can slide the assembly back onto the C-Beam.

Step 5: Once the assembly is on the C-Beam extrusion recheck the bottom Eccentric-Spacer-6mms on the Y-Gantry-Assembly to make sure they are touching the rail and that there is no wobble.

Note: Not all wheels may rotate, and some may rotate freely and seem loose, this is okay. Generally it takes a few weeks for the wheels to ‘settle in’. If you have not tightened all Nylon-Nuts at this point then do so.

1.3.10 End Plates

Step 1: Using 4x M5 Cap Screws – 20mm secure the C-Beam End Mount to the C-Beam.

Note: The Recess for the bearing to seat into should be facing inwards.

Repeat for the other end of the C-Beam.

The Gear Racks will squeeze together. If the Gear Racks are protruding too much you may need to cut off a small amount. The important feature is the Gear Racks are slightly longer than the C-Beam, this way they will be placed under tension when the plates are secured to each end.

1.3.11 Completed Axis

Repeat this chapter to assemble the other Y-Axis actuator. You should have two actuators which are a ‘mirror’ of each other.

To proceed to the next chapter:

If you have a Lead Screw X-Axis click HERE

If you have a Gear Rack X-Axis click HERE

To return to the Chapter Index click HERE

2.1 X-Axis Lead Screw

2.1.1 Wheel Assembly

Step 1: Assemble the Solid V Wheel as per the drawing. Ensure you only use 1 Precision Shim between the two Bearings.

Step 2: Repeat this for all the remaining Solid V Wheels

Tip: Separate the 8mm bore and the 5mm bore bearings so to not incorrectly assemble a wheel with 2 different types of bearings.

2.1.2 ACME Nut Blocks

Step 1: Attach 2x ACME-Nut-Block to the X-Plate-Back using 4x M5 Cap Screw – 25mm & 4x M5-Nylon-Nuts. On each screw, in-between the head of the screw and the X-Plate-Back, there should be a Precision-Shim. In between the X-Plate-Back and the ACME-Nut-Block there should be a Metric Aluminium Spacers – 3mm. Only loosely tighten these screws so the ACME-Nut-Blocks can still move side to side.

2.1.3 X-Wheels

Step 1: First attach the bottom right wheel set – insert a M5 Cap Screw – 65mm through the X-Plate-Front. On to this screw, add an Eccentric-Spacer-6mm, Solid-V-Wheel-M5-Assembly, Metric Aluminium Spacer – 9mm, Solid-V-Wheel-M5-Assembly, and a Eccentric-Spacer-6mm in this order. Next, add a X-Plate-Back onto the top of this assemblage, add a Precision Shim onto the screw and then slightly thread on a M5-Nylon-Nut. The rounded portion of the Eccentric-Spacer-6mm should be inserted into the hole on both the X-Plate-Back or X-Plate-Front (depending on which side it is on).

Step 2: Attach the top right wheel set – insert a M8 Cap Screw – 65mm through the X-Plate-Front. On to this screw, add a M8 Round Spacer – 6mm, Solid-V-Wheel-M8-Assembly, M8 Round Spacer – 9mm, Solid-V-Wheel-M8-Assembly, and a M8 Round Spacer – 6mm in this order. Next, add a X-Plate-Back onto the top of this assemblage and then slightly thread on a M8-Nylon-Nut.

Step 3: Once all the wheels are attached the Nylon-Nuts can be tightened down. Ensure that the Solid-V-Wheels can still rotate freely. On the hexagonal portion of the Eccentric-Spacer-6mm, there will be one face that is marked with ‘6mm’. Using a spanner, adjust each Eccentric-Spacer-6mm so that this face is facing downwards. Doing this maximises the gap between the top and bottom row of wheels.

Step 4: Run any piece of C-Beam extrusion in between the two rows of wheels. Initially, the C-Beam will wobble between the wheels. Turn the assembly upside down so the C-Beam is sitting on the top row of wheels (with M8 Aluminium Spacers). Starting with an outside pair of wheels, adjust both Eccentric-Spacer-6mms down onto the C-Beam Extrusion until there is a small amount of friction between both wheels and the C-Beam Extrusion. When adjusting the pair of Eccentric-Spacer-6mms ideally they should be adjusted identically. However, sometimes one will need to be adjusted slightly more than the other to get both wheels engaged with the C-Beam extrusion. Repeat this for the other outside pair of wheels, and then again for the middle pair.

Step 5: Slide the C-Beam extrusion back and forth through the wheels. This should require a small amount of force, and all wheels should spin as it rolls. Also check there is no wobbling of the extrusion. Once happy, double check the tightness of the Nylon-Nuts.

Tip: It can be easier to lay the X-Plate-Front down and insert all the screws through the holes, then you can add all the other components onto the screws.

Note: Not all wheels may rotate, and some may rotate freely and seem loose, this is okay. Generally it takes a few weeks for the wheels to ‘settle in’.

2.1.4 Loading X-Carriage

Step 1: Slide the X-Axis Assembly onto the C-Beam. This should slide on easily with little resistance or force required.

If there is resistance stop, do not force it or you risk chipping or cracking a wheel on the edge of the extrusion. Make sure all of the eccentric spacer markings are facing downwards so that the top and bottom rows of wheels are spaced the furthest from each other as possible. You can also loosen all the Nylon Lock Nuts on the wheels by 1 turn to help ‘free up’ the rows of wheels.

Step 2: Once the assembly is on the C-Beam extrusion tighten all of the Nylon Lock Nuts.

Step 3: Recheck the bottom Eccentric-Spacer-6mms on the X-Gantry-Assembly to make sure they are touching the rail and that there is no wobble.

Note: Not all wheels may rotate, and some may rotate freely and seem loose, this is okay. Generally it takes a few weeks for the wheels to ‘settle in’.

2.1.5 Preparing T-Nuts

Step 1: Insert 2 T-Nuts into the channels of the V-Slot as shown in the image. These will be used later in this chapter.

Important: Ensure the flat side of the T-Nut is facing outwards.

2.1.6 Extrusions – Y-Plate Right Assembly

Step 1: Secure the Y-Axis Plate to the X-Axis C-Beam and X-Axis 2040 using M5 Cap Screws – 12mm as shown in the image.

2.1.7 Extrusions – Y-Plate Left Assembly

Repeat 2.1.6 for the other side of the Axis so that the X-Axis C-Beam and X-Axis 2040 is suspended between the two Y-Axis Plates.

2.1.8 Angle Corners

Step 1: Secure the 90 Degree Angle Bracket to the threaded holes on the Y-Axis Plate using a M5 Button Head Screw – 10mm.

Step 2: Secure the other side of the Angle Corner Bracket to the T-Nuts that we inserted in 2.1.5 using a M5 Button Head Screw – 8mm

Repeat this for the other side of the X-Axis on the other plate.

2.1.9 ACME Nut Blocks and Inner Bearings

Step 1: Insert the Lead Screw through the Y-Axis Plate and slide a 688Z Bearing and 8mm Lock Collar over the Lead Screw.

Step 2: Thread the ACME-Lead-Screw through the both of the Nut Blocks.

Step 3: With the ACME-Lead-Screws now in position, tighten the screws on the nut blocks that were left loose in step 2.1.2 so they have a firm fixing. This will ensure the nut blocks are aligned.

Note: Be careful when tightening the nut block screws that the nut block does not slightly rotate when being tightened. This will cause the lead screw to be slightly out of alignment which may cause motor stalling problems later.

Step 4: On the other end of the Axis Slide a 8mm Lock Collar and a 688Z Bearing over the Lead Screw and then push the Lead Screw through the other end of the Y-Axis Plate so it is protruding out.

Tip: At this stage don’t tighten the set screws on the 8mm Lock Collars.

2.1.10 X-ACME Screws and Bearings

Step 1: With the Lead Screw protruding out the ends of each of the Y-Axis Plates slide a Thrust Bearing over each end and Thread a Thread Screw Tensioning Nut over each end.

Step 2: Choose which side of your machine you want the Stepper Motor to be mounted to and then slide the Jaw Coupler over the Lead Screw and secure it in place with the set screw. Ensure the Lead Screw is as far into the Jaw Coupler as it can be inserted.

Step 3: Tighten the Set Screws on each Lead Screw Tensioning Nut.

2.1.11 Stepper Motors

Step 1: Attach the Nema23 Stepper Motor to the Y-Axis Plate using 4x M5 Cap Screw – 60mm with 1x M5 Round Spacer – 50mm per screw in place to space the Nema23 Stepper Motor off the Plate.

Step 2: Once the motor is mounted move the ACME-Lead-Screw so it is touching the shaft of the motor. Tighten the Jaw Coupler onto the motor shaft. It is best to have the set screw tightened on the flat section of the Nema23 shaft.

Step 3: Push the Lead Screw Tensioning Nut against the thrust bearing and tighten the grub screw on the lock collar

2.1.12 Completed Axis

To proceed to the next chapter:

For the Z-Axis click HERE

To return to the Chapter Index click HERE

2.2 X-Axis Rack and Pinion

2.2.1 Wheel Assembly

Step 1: Assemble the Solid V Wheel as per the drawing. Ensure you only use 1 Precision Shim between the two Bearings.

Step 2: Repeat this for all the remaining Solid V Wheels

Tip: Separate the 8mm bore and the 5mm bore bearings so to not incorrectly assemble a wheel with 2 different types of bearings.

2.2.2 Motor plate

Step 1: Insert a M5 Low Profile Screw – 30mm though the hole of the X-Axis Plate indicated in the image. Make sure the head of the screw is on the inside of the plate. Then place a M5 Round Spacer – 5mm and a M5 Round Spacer – 10mm over the screw. Then place the L bracket over the screw; note that the holes on the L bracket are in different positions, one is closer to the bend and one is further. The hole that is closer to the bend of the bracket is the hole that you will place over the screw. Then thread the Nylon Lock Nut over the screw so that it is finger tight, we will tighten more this shortly.

Step 2: Insert the M5 Low Profile Screw – 20mm through the end hole of the Gear Rack Motor Mount Plate. Then slide a Precision Shim – 10x5x1mm over the screw. Then place the L bracket over the screw; note that the holes on the L bracket are in different positions, one is closer to the bend and one is further. The hole that is closer to the bend of the bracket is the hole that you will place over the screw. Then thread the Nylon Lock Nut over the screw so that it is finger tight, we will tighten more this shortly.

Step 3: Insert the M5 Cap Screw – 30mm through the middle hole next to the cut out of the Y-Axis Plate. Place the Precision Shim – 10x5x1mm and Thrust Bearing – F5-12M over the screw, then place the opposite-most hole of the Gear Rack Motor Mount Plate over the screw. Place the Precision Shim – 10x5x1mm over the screw then thread the Nylon Lock Nut over the screw so that it is finger tight, we will tighten more this shortly.

2.2.3 Spring System

Step 1: Place Precision Shim – 10x5x1mm, then Spring – 1.2 x 7.5 x 20mm, then Precision Shim – 10x5x1mm over M5 Cap Screw – 60mm .

Step 2: Then insert M5 Cap Screw – 60mm through the holes of both the Universal L Brackets so that it aligns the two holes.

Step 3: Then place Precision Shim – 10x5x1mm over the screw and then thread the Nylon Lock Nut over the screw so that it is finger tight, we will tighten this more later in this chapter.

2.2.4 Stepper Motor Pinion

Step 1: Slide the Pinion Gear so that it is over the shaft of the Nema23 Stepper Motor. Secure it in place using the set screw in the Pinion Gear. Ensure the set screw is secured to the flat section of the motor shaft.

Tip: You may need to reposition the Pinion Gear onto the shaft so it sits centre of the Gear Rack later in this chapter. You may like to secure it ‘loosely’ until then.

2.2.5 Stepper Motor

Step 1:  Secure the Nema23 Stepper Motor to the 4 threaded holes of the Gear Rack Motor Mount Plate.

2.2.6 X Wheels

Step 1: First attach the bottom right wheel set – insert a M5 Cap Screw – 65mm through the X-Plate-Front. On to this screw, add an Eccentric-Spacer-6mm, Solid-V-Wheel-M5-Assembly, Metric Aluminium Spacer – 9mm, Solid-V-Wheel-M5-Assembly, and a Eccentric-Spacer-6mm in this order. Next, add a X-Plate-Back onto the top of this assemblage, add a Precision Shim onto the screw and then slightly thread on a M5-Nylon-Nut. The rounded portion of the Eccentric-Spacer-6mm should be inserted into the hole on both the X-Plate-Back or X-Plate-Front (depending on which side it is on).

Step 2: Attach the top right wheel set – insert a M8 Cap Screw – 65mm screw through the X-Plate-Front. On to this screw, add a M8 Round Spacer – 6mm, Solid-V-Wheel-M8-Assembly, M8 Round Spacer – 9mm, Solid-V-Wheel-M8-Assembly, and a M8 Round Spacer – 6mm in this order. Next, add a X-Plate-Back onto the top of this assemblage and then slightly thread on a M8-Nylon-Nut.

Step 3: Once all the wheels are attached the Nylon-Nuts can be tightened down. Ensure that the Solid-V-Wheels can still rotate freely. On the hexagonal portion of the Eccentric-Spacer-6mm, there will be one face that is marked with ‘6mm’. Using a spanner, adjust each Eccentric-Spacer-6mm so that this face is facing downwards. Doing this maximises the gap between the top and bottom row of wheels.

Step 4: Run any piece of C-Beam extrusion in between the two rows of wheels. Initially, the C-Beam will wobble between the wheels. Turn the assembly upside down so the C-Beam is sitting on the top row of wheels (with M8 Aluminium Spacers). Starting with an outside pair of wheels, adjust both Eccentric-Spacer-6mms down onto the C-Beam Extrusion until there is a small amount of friction between both wheels and the C-Beam Extrusion. When adjusting the pair of Eccentric-Spacer-6mms ideally they should be adjusted identically. However, sometimes one will need to be adjusted slightly more than the other to get both wheels engaged with the C-Beam extrusion. Repeat this for the other outside pair of wheels, and then again for the middle pair.

Step 5: Slide the C-Beam extrusion back and forth through the wheels. This should require a small amount of force, and all wheels should spin as it rolls. Also check there is no wobbling of the extrusion. Once happy, double check the tightness of the Nylon-Nuts.

Tip: It can be easier to lay the X-Plate-Front down and insert all the screws through the holes, then you can add all the other components onto the screws.

Note: Not all wheels may rotate, and some may rotate freely and seem loose, this is okay. Generally it takes a few weeks for the wheels to ‘settle in’.

2.2.7 Gear Racks

Insert the Internal Gear Racks into the C-Beam. You may need to cut the last Gear Rack so it does not protrude out of the C-Beam too far. The ideal length of the Gear Rack is approximately 2mm protruding out of each end of the C-Beam. For now do not cut the Gear Rack to size until later in this chapter.

2.2.8 Preparing T-Nuts

Step 1: Insert 2 T-Nuts into the channels of the V-Slot as shown in the image. These will be used later in this chapter.

Important: Ensure the flat side of the T-Nut is facing outwards.

2.2.9 Loading X-Carriage

Step 1: Slide the X-Axis Assembly onto the C-Beam. This should slide on easily with little resistance or force required.

If there is resistance stop, do not force it or you risk chipping or cracking a wheel on the edge of the extrusion. Make sure all of the eccentric spacer markings are facing downwards so that the top and bottom rows of wheels are spaced the furthest from each other as possible. You can also loosen all the Nylon Lock Nuts on the wheels by 1 turn to help ‘free up’ the rows of wheels.

Step 2: Once the assembly is on the C-Beam make sure the Pinion Gear is centred over the Gear Rack, if it is not then loosen the Pinion Gear and reposition it on the motor shaft so that it will line up centre of the Gear Rack.

Step 3: Tighten the screw that has the spring installed until the Pinion Gear is sitting hard against the Gear Rack.

IMPORTANT: The right amount of tightening in the M5 Nylon Hex Locknut and spring loaded screw is when the motor plate becomes hard against the Gear Rack so that it is fully seated into the teeth of the Gear Rack. This means that this nut should not be over-tight or under tight. 

Step 4: At this point remove the X-Axis assembly from the C-Beam and tighten the lock nuts that we left slightly loose in steps 2.2.2 (there are 3 to tighten). Once these are tightened you can slide the assembly back onto the C-Beam.

Step 5: Once the assembly is on the C-Beam extrusion recheck the bottom Eccentric-Spacer-6mms on the X-Gantry-Assembly to make sure they are touching the rail and that there is no wobble.

Note: Not all wheels may rotate, and some may rotate freely and seem loose, this is okay. Generally it takes a few weeks for the wheels to ‘settle in’. If you have not tightened all Nylon-Nuts at this point then do so.

2.2.10 Extrusions – Y-Plate Right Assembly

Step 1: Secure the Y-Axis Plate to the X-Axis C-Beam and X-Axis 2040 using M5 Cap Screw – 12mm as shown in the image.

2.2.11 Extrusions – Y-Plate Left Assembly

2.2.12 Angle Corners

Step 1: Secure the 90 Degree Angle Bracket to the threaded holes on the Y-Axis Plate using a M5 Button Head Screw – 10mm.

Step 2: Secure the other side of the Angle Corner Bracket to the T-Nuts that we inserted in 2.1.5 using a M5 Button Head Screw – 8mm

Repeat this for the other side of the X-Axis on the other plate.

2.2.13 Completed Axis

To proceed to the next chapter:

For the Z-Axis click HERE

To return to the Chapter Index click HERE

3.0 Z-Axis

3.1 Linear Rail Preparation

Step 1: Prepare the MGN Rail by inserting the M3 Button Head Screw – 10mm through the mounting holes on the MGN rail and slightly threading the Sliding T-Nut onto the Screw.

Repeat for the other MGN Rail.

Note: The number of mounting holes may vary, you have been supplied extra Screws and T-Nuts to allow for this.

3.2 Attaching The Linear Rail

Step 1: Slide the MGN Rails onto the channels of the C-Beam as shown in the image.

Tip: Line up all the T-Nuts so they are facing the same way before sliding the MGN Rail on to the C-Beam.

3.3 MGN Bearings

Step 1: Slide the MGN Bearings onto the MGN Rails as shown in the image.

Important: When sliding the MGN Bearings onto the rail be very careful not to loose any of the captive ball bearings inside the Bearing Block. The best method of installing the Bearing Block onto the Rail is to keep the plastic retainer that comes in the Bearing Block in, and then line the plastic retainer up with the MGN rails and slide the Bearing Block off the plastic retainer and on to the MGN Rail.

3.4 Nut Block and Lead Screw

Step 1: Insert 2x M5 Low Profile Screws – 35mm through the recessed hole of the Maker Store Work-B V3 Z Plate. Slide the Spacer Block over the screws and then slide the Anti-Backlash Nut Block over the screws so that the hexagonal recess is facing outwards. Insert the Nylon Lock Nuts into the recess and tighten the screws.

Step 2: Thread the Lead Screw through the Anti-Backlash Nut Block until it is half way.

Step 3: With the set crew provided with the Anti-Backlash Nut Block, screw it into the smaller threaded hole on the top until it is just before the point of touching the surface on the opposite side of the gap. The set screw will later be used to remove any back lash from the system. Thread the set screw nut over the set screw until it is touching the Anti-Backlash Nut Block.

3.5 Z-Gantry

Step 1: Secure the Z-Axis Plate Assembly to the MGN 15 Bearing Blocks using the M3 Button Head Screws – 10mm.

The Lead Screw is positioned inside the 2040 Channel of the C-Beam.

3.6 End Plates, Bearings, Lock Collars

Step 1: Using 4x M5 Cap Screws – 8mm secure the Z-Axis Motor Plates to each end of the C-Beam.

Step 2: Slide an 8mm Lock Collar then the 688Z Bearing over the Lead Screw on each end of the Lead Screw.

Tip: You can move the Z-Gantry side to side to easily gain access to the end of the Lead Screw.

Step 3: Seat the 688Z Bearing in the recess of the plate and then push the 8mm Lock Collar against the bearing. Tighten the set screw in the 8mm Lock Collar to secure it in place.

Step 4: Position the Lead Screw so that one end is flush with the End Plate, while the other end is protruding out of the End Plate.

3.7 Stepper Motor

Step 1: Slide the 1/4” side (the side with the smallest hole) of the Jaw-Coupler onto the shaft of the NEMA23-Stepper-Motor. Don’t tighten it down at this point.

Step 2: Attach the NEMA23-Stepper-Motor to the threaded holes on the Z-Motor-Mount Plate using 4x M5 Cap Screws – 50mm and 4x Metric Aluminium Spacers – 40mm.

3.8 X & Z Mating

For the purpose of this step the X-Axis extrusion is not visible in the drawing.

Step 1: Attach the Z-Axis assembly to the X-Axis Front Plate using 4x M5 Cap Screws – 20mm.

3.9 Completed Axis

To proceed to the next chapter:

For the Spoiler Board 1000mm and 1500mm Models click HERE

For the Spoiler Board 3000mm Model click here

To return to the Chapter Index click HERE

4.1 Spoiler Board: 1000mm and 1500mm Models

The Spoiler Board consists of 5x 2040 Extrusions. These are split into two different types being; Transversal Extrusions, Front & Rear Extrusions.

The Transversal Extrusions run front to back between the Front and Rear Extrusions and are the same length as the Y-Axis C-Beam.

The Front and Rear Extrusions are what the Y-Axis C-Beam is secured to. These two extrusions are the same length as the X-Axis C-Beam.

Tip: When installing the Spoiler Board it can be easier to build it across two benches so that you can get underneath the extrusion to tighten fixings.

4.1.1 Front and Rear Extrusions – Preparing T-Nuts

Step 1: Insert 6 T-nuts into the top and bottom channels on the 40mm face of the 2040 Extrusion.

Repeat this for the other 2040 extrusion.

4.1.2 Transversal Extrusions – Preparing T-Nuts

Step 1: Insert 2 T-nuts into the top and bottom channels on both of the 40mm faces of the 2040 Extrusion.

Repeat this for the other two 2040 extrusion.

4.1.3 Attaching Transversal Extrusions on Front & Rear Extrusions

Step 1: Position the 2040 Transversal so that it is approximately 100mm in from the end of the Front/Back 2040 Extrusion. Slide the T-Nuts into position ready for the Double L Bracket

Step 2: With 4x M5 Low Profile Screws – 8mm use the Double L Bracket to secure the two 2040 Extrusions together.

Step 3: Repeat this step for both faces of the Transversal 2040 Extrusion, and for both ends.

Step 4: Repeat steps 1-3 for the other Transversal 2040 Extrusion spacing it 100mm from the other end of the Front/Back 2040 Extrusions. The middle 2040 space evenly between the other two, where this is will depend on the model you have.

4.1.4 Preparing T-Nuts

Step 1: Insert 2 M5 T-Nuts into the top inner channel of the Front and Back 2040 Extrusion. We will use these later in this chapter.
Step 2: Repeat for the other 3 corners.

4.1.5 End Caps

Step 1: Secure the 2040 End Cap to the end of the Front/Back 2040 Extrusion using 2x M5 Button Head Screws – 8mm

Repeat for the other end and the other Front/Back 2040 Extrusion.

4.1.6 Full Spoiler Board

At this stage you should have the Spoiler Board frame assembled as shown below.

4.1.7 Attaching Spoiler Board to Y-Axis

Step 1: Secure the Double L Bracket to the Front/Back 2040 Extrusion using 2x M5 Low Profile Screws – 8mm and the 2x M5 T-Nuts we inserted in step 4.1.4.

Note: The holes on the L Bracket are in different positions, one face is closer to the bend, and the other face is further from the bend. The holes that are closer to the bend is the face that is secured to the Front/Back 2040 Extrusions.

Step 2: Secure the other face of the Double L Bracket to the Y-Axis C-Beam using 2x M5 Low Profile Screws – 8mm and the 2x M5 T-Nuts we inserted previously in step:

• Step 1.1.5: For a Lead Screw transmission
• Step 1.2.8: For a Gear Rack transmission 1000mm and 1500mm models.

Important: The end of the C-Beam should be flush with the edge of the Front/Back 2040 Extrusion so that the End Plate attached to the C-Beam is resting on the top face of the Front/Back 2040 Extrusion.

Repeat for the other end of the Y-Axis C-Beam, and for the other side of the machine.

Tip: Have the corner of the machine hanging off your bench when attaching the Spoiler Board to the C-Beam so that you can easily reach the fixings.

Congratulations, the mechanical portion of the machine assembly is now complete.

The machine must be commissioned prior to use. Take a look at our Commissioning Guide for assistance with Squaring, Lead Screw Tensioning and Tramming.

4.2 Spoiler Board: 3000mm Model

The Spoiler Board is made up of 5x 2040 Extrusions which are split into two types. All the 2040 Extrusions run perpendicular to the Y-Axis C-Beam so that the Y-Axis is secured in 5 locations along its length.

The Front and Rear Extrusions are 1000mm and 1500mm depending on the length of your X-Axis.

The Parallel Support Extrusions are 937mm and 1437mm depending on the length of your X-Axis.

4.2.1 Front and Rear Extrusions – L2 Brackets

Step 1: Insert 2x M5 T-Nuts into the top channel on the 40mm face of the 2040 Extrusion

Step 2: Secure the Double L Bracket to the Front/Back 2040 Extrusion using 2x M5 Low Profile Screws – 8mm and the 2x M5 T-Nuts.

Note: The holes on the L Bracket are in different positions, one face is closer to the bend, and the other face is further from the bend. The holes that are closer to the bend is the face that is secured to the Front/Back 2040 Extrusions.

Step 3: Repeat for the other end and the other Front/Back 2040 Extrusion.

4.2.2 Attaching Front and Rear to the Y-Axis

Step 1: Secure the other face of the Double L Bracket to the Y-Axis C-Beam using 2x M5 Low Profile Screws – 8mm and the 2x M5 T-Nuts we inserted from the previous chapter in Step 1.3.8.

Important: The end of the C-Beam should be flush with the edge of the Front/Back 2040 Extrusion so that the End Plate attached to the C-Beam is resting on the top face of the Front/Back 2040 Extrusion.

Tip: Have the corner of the machine hanging off your bench when attaching the Spoiler Board to the C-Beam so that you can easily reach the fixings.

Repeat for the other end of the Y-Axis C-Beam, and for the other side of the machine.

4.2.3 Parallel Supports – L1 Brackets

Step 1: Slide a M5 T-Nut into the top channel of the Parallel 2040 Extrusion.

Step 2: Secure the Single L Bracket to the Parallel 2040 Extrusion using 1x M5 Low Profile Screw – 8mm and the M5 T-Nut.

Repeat Step 1 and Step 2 for the other end of the extrusion and for the other three extrusions.

Tip: Leave the screw securing the Single L Bracket slightly loose so that the bracket can slide along the extrusion. We will position them correctly later in this chapter.

4.2.4 Attaching Parallel Supports to the Y-Axis

There are three Parallel 2040 Extrusions to secure between the Y-Axis C-Beams. Start with the middle Parallel 2040 Extrusion.

Step 1: Measure between the Front and Back 2040 Extrusions for the middle of each Y-Axis C-Beam and position the Parallel 2040 Extrusion in place. Then measure the middle point between this centre Parallel 2040 Extrusion and the Front/Back 2040 Extrusion and position the other two Parallel 2040 Extrusions in place.

Tip: Use one extrusion, either the Front or the Back 2040 Extrusion, as your datum. Mark all measurements from this datum for maximum accuracy.

Step 2: Using the M5 T-Nuts that we inserted in a previous chapter in Step 1.3.8 attach the L1 Bracket to the Y-Axis C-Beam using a M5 Low Profile Screw – 8mm.

At this point leave both the screws slightly loose so we can finalise the position of the extrusion.

Step 3: Position the Parallel 2040 Extrusion so that it sits evenly under both sides of the Y-Axis C-Beam.

To do this make sure the screw that secures the L1 Bracket to the Parallel 2040 Extrusion is loose so that the bracket can move along this extrusion. Move the entire X-Axis so that it is over the Parallel 2040 Extrusion you are securing, this will ensure both Y-Axis C-Beams are spaced the correct distance apart from each other.

Step 4:Then when the Parallel 2040 Extrusion is under both C-Beams equally you can tighten the brackets in place. Make sure to secure the L1 Brackets before you move the X-Axis again.

Important: The Parallel 2040 Extrusion should sit under the Y-Axis C-Beam approximately 10mm. This ensures the weight of the C-Beam is directly on the 2040 extrusion. The L1 Bracket secures the two extrusions together.

Repeat this step for the other two Parallel 2040 Extrusions.

Move the gantry past each Parallel 2040 Extrusion to ensure the spacing is correct and the gantry is not colliding with the extrusion.

Tip: Because of the size of the machine it can be much easier to get a second person to help you move the other gantry.

4.2.5 End Caps

Step 1: Secure the 2040 End Cap to the end of the Front/Back 2040 Extrusion using 2x M5 Button Head Screws – 8mm
Repeat for the other end and the other Front/Back 2040 Extrusion.

5.0 Work-B Add-Ons

5.1 Cable Drag Chain (CDC) and Bracket Mounting

→ If you are using CDC 15 x 30, follow chapter 5.1.1

→ If you are using CDC 25 x 50 for the Y Axis, follow chapter 5.1.2

5.1.1 CDC 15 x 30

For the CDC 15 x 30 , please unpack the satchel labelled as PACK-CDC101.

Note: This is a generic hardware pack used for different machines. Therefore, not all the components received in the pack and mentioned above will be required.

For simplification purposes, the CDC mounting process has been divided into two parts:

X-Axis:

Step 1: Line up the CDC Mounting Bracket slots with the X-Axis Plate top holes as shown in the image and insert 2x M5 Low Profile Screws 15mm through slots into the holes.

Step 2: Tighten the above assembly using 2x Nylon Insert Hex Locknut M5.

Step 3: Place 2x Drop In Tee Nut M4 into the groove of the X-Axis 2040 extrusion. Line up one of the CDC End holes with the Tee Nuts.

Step 4:  Insert 2x M4 Button Head Screw 8mm into the holes and Tee Nuts and tighten using an Allen Key.

Step 5: Place the other CDC End on the CDC Mounting Bracket and align the holes of the same with slots of the CDC Mounting Bracket, as shown in the image.

Pro Tip: Ensure the CDC is straight in reference to the other attached CDC End. Adjust the mounting position on the CDC Mounting Bracket by using different slots.

Step 6: Insert 2x M4 Button Head Screws 10mm into the CDC End holes through the aligned CDC Mounting Bracket slots. 

Step 7: Tighten the above assembly using 2x Nylon Insert Hex Locknut M4.

Y-Axis: 

Step 1: Line up the CDC Bracket Mounting Slots with holes of the Y-Axis plate, as shown in the image.

Step 2: Insert 2x M5 Low Profile Screws 8mm into the slots and through the aligned holes. 

Step 3: If you are using a separate extrusion for mounting Y-Axis CDC, then follow steps 3 & 4 of X-Axis to mount one of the CDC End or you can directly mount the CDC End to the tabletop where the CNC Machine is mounted.

Step 4: Place the other CDC End onto the Mounting Bracket and line up the CDC Mounting holes with slots of CDC Mounting Bracket, as shown in the image.

Pro Tip: Ensure the CDC is straight in reference to the other attached CDC End. Adjust the mounting position on the CDC Mounting Bracket by using different slots.

Step 5: Insert 2x M4 Button Head Screws 10mm through the same holes and slots of the CDC Mounting Bracket.

Step 6: Tighten the above assembly using 2x Nylon Insert Hex Locknuts M4.

5.1.2 CDC 25 x 50

For the CDC 25 x 50, please unpack the satchel labelled as PACK-CDC104.

Note: This is a generic hardware pack used for different machines. Therefore, not all the components received in the pack and mentioned above will be required.

The CDC 25 x 50 fits only on the Y-Axis. Please see the below procedure for mounting.

Y-Axis: 

Step 1: Line up the CDC Mounting Bracket slots with threaded holes of the Y-Axis plate, as shown in the image.

Step 2: Slide 2x Slot Washers onto 2x M5 Button Head Screws 8mm (one on each screw) and insert the screws into the threaded holes. Tighten the screws to secure the assembly.

Step 3: Mount the CDC end to the tabletop where the CNC Machine is mounted. 

Step 4: Place the other CDC End onto the CDC Mounting Bracket and line up the CDC mounting holes with slots of CDC Mounting Bracket, as shown in the image.

Pro Tip: Make sure your CDC is mounted so that the cable exits at the desired end of your machine (front or back).

Step 5: Place 2x Slot Washers onto the aligned holes of CDC and insert 2x M5 Button Head Screws 16mm through the same holes and slots of the Mounting Bracket.

Step 6: Tighten the above assembly using 2x Nylon Insert Hex Locknuts.

Note

If you would like to use a separate extrusion for mounting the drag chain end, follow the Steps 3 & 4 CDC 15X30 X-Axis.

5.2 Limit Switches

There are two types of mechanical limit switches available for the Work-B. The Micro Limit Switch (Type A) and the CMV103C Long Arm/CMV104D Short Arm (Type B). See images below for reference.

5.2.1 Limit Switch Assembly

To assemble the CMV103C/104D Limit Switch, use the BoM and follow the steps below:

Step 1. Insert 2x 12mm M3 Cap Head Bolts (3) into the two holes of the CMV103C Limit Switch (1)

Step 2. Referring to figure 4, line up the appropriate threaded holes of the Limit Switch Plate V2 (2) with the 12mm M3 Cap Head Bolts (3) so that the limit switch lever hangs off the front of the plate.

Step 3. Finally, screw in the 12mm M3 Cap Head Bolts (3) into the threaded holes of the Limit Switch Plate V2 (2).

It is possible to invert the limit switch for right-side sensing.

To mount the limit switch and plate to your machine:

Step 4. Line up the limit switch arm with a suitable flat surface to trigger the limit switch lever on your machine. This can be a gantry plate, bearing or a V-Wheel.

Step 5. Insert the Spring Loaded Tee Nuts (5) into a V-Slot channel (Figure 6) and then line up the slot of the limit switch plates with the Spring Loaded Tee Nuts (Figure 7). Use an Allen key to fasten the M5-Button Head Screws-8mm (4) into the Tee Nuts through the plate to secure the micro limit switch assembly (Figure 8).

This completes the assembly of the CMV103C/104D limit switch kit.

To assemble the Micro Limit Switch, use the BoM and follow the steps below:

Step 1. Insert the 2x M3-Cap Head Screw-10mm (1) through the Limit Switch Plate (5) so that the screws are lined up (horizontally or vertically). Configuration is dependant on how you plan to mount the limit switch plate.

Step 2. Line up both holes of the Micro Limit Switch (4) with the 2x M3-Cap Head Screw-10mm (1), secure the Micro Limit Switch to the plate.

Note: Some force may be needed if the Micro Limit Switch has not been threaded beforehand.

Note: Do not over tighten!

Step 3. To mount the Plate and Micro Limit switch to a machine or V-slot extrusion, insert the M5-Button Head Screw-8mm (3) through the larger slot in the Limit Switch Plate (5) and the Slot Washer – 15x5x2mm (6), then secure by screwing the Spring Loaded Tee Nut (2) onto the M5-Button Head Screw-8mm loosely. See figure 7 for reference.

Step 4. Line up the red limit switch with a suitable flat surface on your machine, such as a gantry plate, bearing or even a V-Wheel. Insert the Spring Loaded Tee Nut (2) into a V-Slot channel, then use an Allen key to turn the M5-Button Head Screw-8mm (3) clockwise into the tee nut through the plate to secure the micro limit switch assembly.

Limit switch kits can be placed in any location you can secure it. For our machines we suggest limits and homing to be located on the Front of the Y – axis, Left of the X – axis, and Bottom of the Z – axis.

5.2.2 Limit Switch Mounting

Placement for the CMV103C/104D Limit Switch (left column) and Micro Limit Switch (right column) are shown in the images below. Please see the Micro Limit Switch mounting guides for full mounting, wiring and placement instructions.

Micro-Limit Switch -CMV103D/104C Mounting and Wiring

X-Axis Mounting

Y-Axis Mounting

Z-Axis Mounting

Congratulations, the mechanical portion of the machine assembly is now complete.

The machine must be commissioned prior to use. Take a look at our Commissioning Guide for assistance with Squaring, Lead Screw Tensioning and Tramming.

Please click HERE to go to the commissioning Guide.